Woke up: Underway
Went to sleep: Manzanillo, Mexico
Another All-Nighter (Overnight Passage)
Both the guide books and other cruisers have reported there are no protected anchorages between Zihuatanejo and Manzanillo, approximately 190 miles. A “protected” anchorage doesn’t mean the area is safe from banditos but rather the area is protected from the wind and ocean swell. Wind and ocean swell, when you are trying to sleep, can be worse than a gang of banditos. You lay awake and listen to the cups, glasses, plates, bowls and pans slide and clang from one side of the cupboard to the other. It wakes you with a start. Just as you are falling back to sleep, the cups, glasses, plates, bowls and pans slide and clang back to their original position, waking you once again.
This distance will require us to pull an all-nighter. This means we travel either under power or under sail through the night. Over the past six months, Peter and I have done 21 all-nighters. It’s a combination of really miserable and really fun.
The fun part is watching the sun set and later watching it return, knowing the earth just made a complete rotation on its axis while you were sitting there.
The fun part is marveling at the infinite number of stars in the sky. Tonight there was no moon so the stars took over the show. The fun part is watching and waiting for a shooting star. I guarantee on any given night, if you watch, you will see half a dozen shooting stars. I like to save up all my wishes for my night time watch and make a different wish on each shooting start I see.
The fun part is watching the marine bioluminescence in the water. This phenomenon is caused by light generated chemically by marine organisms. Similar to the light of fireflies, bioluminescence is exhibited by a wide variety of oceanic organisms. The light is emitted when a pigment is oxidized in the presence of an enzyme also produced by the organism.
It’s like shooting stars in the water. Sometimes you see sparkles on the ripples. Sometimes the sparkles trail off the bow wake. Peter likes to fill a bucket of water and pour sparkles into the ocean.
We travelled 190 miles back up the Mexican mainland. This is mostly uncharted territory for us since we travelled straight from La Paz to Zihuatanejo the end of January. Now this passage is behind us, it could be short hops all the way up the coast as far as Arizona if we go that far.
No more all-nighters. Darn!